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Mar 28, 2024

John Ash shares creative ways to use tinned fish

All of us have some history with canned (tinned) seafood. Who can forget those inexpensive cans of domestic tuna that helped many of us through college or some low-paying time of our lives? When I was

All of us have some history with canned (tinned) seafood. Who can forget those inexpensive cans of domestic tuna that helped many of us through college or some low-paying time of our lives? When I was growing up in Colorado, my grandmother insisted I have a can of tuna or sardines with me when I went fishing or hunting — “survival food” she called it. It’s very simple food, but in recent times tinned fish has become very hip in restaurants and with home cooks.

Originally “tinned” seafood was in glass jars, probably owing its association to wine in bottles. Tinned seafood was one of the greatest inventions in food preservation, and it came in response to a wartime need. In 1795, the French army offered a 12,000-franc prize (an immense amount then) to anyone who could create a way to store food that could travel to the front without spoiling. In 1810, French chef Nicolas Appert came up with the technique of boiling and sealing food in glass bottles. He wasn’t sure why this worked, but it was explained later by Louis Pasteur, who taught us that the combination of heat-based sterilization and airtight sealing keeps food inside free of spoiling microorganisms.

This is the same technique we use today with canning. (Appert did claim the prize, by the way.) The move to using tins was patented by Englishman Peter Durand. Tins were a much more efficient container than glass, and an industry was born.

Ground zero for tinned seafood now and for a long time has been the Mediterranean, especially Spain and Portugal. Not only are there all kinds of fish and shellfish available but on the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal), they are packaged with the most inventive and beautiful labels. There are markets there that only sell tinned fish. It’s definitely something to put on your culinary bucket list.

Probably the most important attribute of tinned fish is that it can have a shelf life of up to five years. After you’ve opened it, canned seafood, like any perishable food, should not be left at room temperature for prolonged periods. Once opened, it should be refrigerated and covered; it can last for up to three days without spoiling.

The popularity of tinned fish (called conservas in Mediterranean countries) has been a culinary favorite for centuries. Tinned sardines, anchovies, mussels and the like are delicious, quick and versatile. All you need to do is peel back that lid, assemble your “sea-cuterie” board and dive into the world of tinned fish. In the recipes that follow, feel free to substitute any tinned fish that strikes your fancy.

Makes 4 servings

This is a classic starter and considered the national dish of Catalonia. It’s made variously with anchovies or other tinned fish, cheeses and/or Spanish Jamon serrano (cured Spanish ham).

4 slices rustic bread

2 medium dead-ripe tomatoes

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (preferably Spanish), plus more for drizzling

Sea salt, to taste

8 small anchovies, preferably smoked, or other tinned fish

Toast or grill the bread and set aside. Cut the tomatoes in half. Place a grater over a large mixing bowl. Rub the cut side of the tomatoes until all the flesh is grated. Discard the skin.

Add 3 tablespoons of olive oil to the grated tomato and season to taste with salt.

Spoon the tomato mixture over the slices of toast and top each slice with two of the anchovies or your other favorite tinned fish. Drizzle with a little more oil and serve.

Makes 6 - 8 servings

The different twist here uses canned tuna to make a “tonnato” sauce, an elegant Italian aioli of canned tuna, anchovies and lemon. It’s typically used as a condiment for lean meat, especially braised veal. Its roots are in the Piemonte region of Italy. Today you’ll find it served with all sorts of things like tomatoes, asparagus, hard- and soft-cooked eggs, pasta, even potato chips.

Tonnato Sauce (recipe follows)

Mixture of savory greens such as frisée, cress, endive and whatever else you like

Honey Lemon Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

Capers, for topping

On chilled plates, spread a nice layer (a couple of tablespoons) of the tonnato sauce. Dress the separated greens gently with vinaigrette and arrange attractively on top of the sauce with a sprinkling of capers.

Makes 2 cups or so

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium peeled and smashed garlic clove

1 6-ounce can tuna packed in olive oil, flaked

3 drained anchovy fillets

½ cup mayonnaise

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, or to taste

2 teaspoons drained capers

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a blender, add the oil, garlic, tuna with its oil, anchovies, mayonnaise, egg yolks, lemon juice and capers and process to a smooth puree. Place mixture in a small mixing bowl and stir in parsley. Correct seasoning with salt and pepper. Store refrigerated and covered for up to 2 days.

Makes 1 generous cup

2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot

6 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar

2 tablespoons fragrant honey

4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

4 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Whisk all ingredients together and season with salt and pepper. Store covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

Makes 6 servings

This makes a wonderful appetizer on its own or can be served as a side for grilled meats or poultry. Topping with any tinned fish would make it stellar!

For the Salt-Crusted Potatoes:

2 pounds evenly sized waxy new potatoes, such as fingerling, scrubbed but unpeeled

Sea salt flakes

Salsa Verde (recipe follows)

Tinned fish fillets (optional)

Put the potatoes into a wide, shallow pan in which they fit in a single layer. Add 2 tablespoons salt and 1 quart cold water (just enough to cover the potatoes), bring to a boil and leave to boil rapidly until the water has evaporated. Then turn the heat to low and continue to cook for a few minutes, gently turning over the potatoes occasionally, until they are dry and the skins are wrinkled and covered in a thin crust of salt.

Pile the hot potatoes onto a plate and serve with the salsa, instructing your guests to rub off as much salt from the potatoes as they wish before dipping them in the sauce and topping with a tinned fish of their choice.

Makes about 1 cup

2 cups coarsely chopped parsley

½ cup chopped fresh basil or mint

4 (or more) anchovy fillets in oil

2 tablespoons drained capers

2 tablespoons blanched or roasted garlic

1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest

⅔ cup or so fruity extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Add the parsley, anchovies, capers, garlic, basil and zest to a food processor or blender. With the machine running, slowly add the oil until just blended. Sauce should still have a little texture. Season with salt and pepper. Can be stored covered and refrigerated for a day.

Makes 16 toasts

16 ⅓-inch-thick baguette slices, cut on diagonal into 3- to 4-inch lengths

Extra-virgin olive oil

1 large garlic clove, peeled and halved

2 4-ounce cans boneless sardines or mackerel in olive oil, drained

Sriracha or other hot chile sauce (optional)

Fresh lemon juice plus lemon wedges, for garnish

Very thin sweet white onion slices

2 tablespoons drained capers

16 thick strips piquillo peppers, drained (see Note)

Preheat broiler. Brush both sides of each bread slice lightly with olive oil. Arrange bread slices on a small baking sheet. Broil until they start to color, about 1 minute per side. Rub one side of each bread slice with cut side of garlic and cool.

Place bread slices, garlic side up, on serving platter. Divide sardines among bread slices in a single layer. Sprinkle a few drops of Sriracha sauce over each, if desired, then a few drops of lemon juice. Top each toast with onion slices, several capers and then a strip of piquillo pepper. Garnish platter with lemon wedges and serve.

Note: Wonderfully versatile piquillo peppers come exclusively from the small northern Spanish region of Navarra. Nestled between the borders of southern France and Basque territory, the town of Lodosa thrives on a busy trade in piquillo peppers. The peppers take their name from their distinctive, narrow, triangular shape: Piquillo means “beak” in Spanish.

At first glance, piquillos look like a variant of sweet bell pepper, but just one bite will tell a different story, as the familiar sweetness gives way to a sneaky heat. Navarra’s piquillo peppers are traditionally roasted over a beechwood fire, which adds a delectable smokiness. The final product is then packed whole in its delicious juices, ready to be sliced, stuffed and pureed into a variety of delicious dishes.

Gilda Appetizer

Many dishes and drinks have become synonymous with their namesakes, such as the Shirley Temple. The name for the alcohol-free drink came from a “cocktail” made for the child actress “so she could feel fancy” in the presence of adults enjoying their drink.

The beautiful and talented actress Rita Hayworth gave birth to a finger food (tapa or pinxto) called Gilda, named after her most important movie role, with the green, salty and spicy flavors echoing the title character’s witty, spicy personality.

Typically a pickled green guindilla pepper or sometimes a gherkin pickle or sun-dried tomato, olives and anchovies were all lined up on a toothpick for easy eating.

Makes 6 servings

1 pound ripe cherry tomatoes

1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

4 - 6 ounces day-old peasant bread, torn into bite-size pieces

1 small Kirby or pickling cucumber, seeded and diced

½ small sweet red onion, peeled and very thinly sliced

2 tablespoons drained capers

Small handful fresh mint (15 leaves), picked and sliced into thin ribbons, divided

For the dressing

4 anchovy fillets

1 clove garlic

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

⅓ cup good-quality olive oil

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

Slice the tomatoes in halves or quarters, going for manageable bite-size pieces. Place them in a colander set over a bowl and sprinkle the tomatoes with the salt. Set aside to drain for about 15 minutes.

In a large salad bowl, place the drained tomatoes (reserve 2 tablespoons of the juice), bread hunks, chopped cucumber, red onion, capers and about half the sliced mint.

In a mortar and pestle, combine the anchovies, garlic, half the remaining mint and a small pinch of salt. Pound it aggressively to make a paste.

Add the olive oil and vinegar to the reserved 2 tablespoons of tomato juice. Drop in the anchovy paste and whisk until emulsified. Alternatively, shake it all up in a jar. Taste for seasoning; it may need more salt or a few cracks of pepper.

Pour the dressing over the salad and gently toss. I like to use my hands to toss a panzanella, to feel the juices start penetrating the bread. Allow the salad to rest at room temperature for at least 1 hour before serving, to allow the bread to soak in the juices.

Makes 4 servings

A specialty of Provence in the South of France, pan bagnat literally means “bathed bread.” Originally it was a vegetable salad mixed with pieces of toasted leftover bread that became soaked with the juices after a time. In this version, a split baguette is filled with salad ingredients and canned fish. The loaf is then wrapped in plastic and weighed down so the loaf becomes moist and compact. Basically, it’s a salade nicoise between slices of crusty bread. It should be made ahead and is great to take to a picnic because it travels well.

3 plum tomatoes, cored and thinly sliced crosswise

Kosher salt, to taste

1 5-ounce can olive oil-packed tuna, drained

½ small red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and chopped

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 round rustic bread loaf, split (16 - 20 ounces)

½ cup fresh celery leaves or thinly sliced fennel

4 thin slices of sweet red onion

1 small Persian cucumber, thinly sliced lengthwise

2 hard-boiled eggs, thinly sliced crosswise

6 oil-cured anchovies, drained

8 oil-cured black olives, pitted and chopped

4 large basil leaves, torn

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Sprinkle tomato slices liberally with salt and transfer to a colander. Set aside to drain for 30 minutes. Pat dry with paper towels and set aside.

In a small bowl, break up tuna with a fork, stir in bell pepper and set aside.

In another small bowl, whisk together oil and mustard; set dressing aside. Scoop the insides from the bread loaf and discard or reserve for another use. Place tomatoes evenly over bottom of bread and then top with the celery leaves, onion and cucumbers. Spread tuna mixture over top, then top with egg slices, anchovies, olives and basil. Pour dressing evenly over ingredients and season with salt and pepper. Cover with top of bread, pressing lightly to compact.

Wrap sandwich tightly in plastic wrap and place on a baking sheet. Top with another baking sheet and weigh down with a cast-iron skillet. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. Slice into quarters to serve.

Makes 4 servings

You might already have on hand what you need to make this classic Sicilian recipe. For the sardines, look for “two-layer” sardines, which are smaller (I like the ones called Tiny Tots.) No cheese is used here, but a little freshly grated pecorino would be nice. You can substitute any canned fish, such as mackerel, herring or smoked oysters.

Kosher salt

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

½ cup fresh breadcrumbs from bread with crusts removed

1½ cups chopped onion

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

Freshly ground black pepper

¾ pound long pasta, such as bucatini

Zest and juice form 1 small lemon

2 tablespoons drained capers

2 - 4 ounces sardines, mackerel, tuna or other tinned fish packed in extra-virgin olive oil

½ cup chopped fresh parsley, plus more for garnish

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add enough salt so it tastes like the sea. Add 2 tablespoons oil to a medium skillet set over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the breadcrumbs and cook, stirring frequently, until golden and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Remove and set aside.

Add the remaining oil, onion and garlic to the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally over medium heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the lemon zest and juice, capers and sardines. Cook, stirring occasionally, until just heated through, about 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until just tender. Drain, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Turn the heat under the onions and garlic to medium-high and cook until they’re just beginning to color.

Add the drained pasta to the sardine mixture and toss gently to combine, trying to keep the sardines as whole as you can. Add the parsley, most of the breadcrumbs and some reserved water, if necessary, to moisten. Taste and adjust seasoning and garnish with more parsley and breadcrumbs.

Makes 2 - 4 servings

You also can use tinned mackerel, tuna, trout and anything else you like in this recipe.

Neutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola, for frying

1 cup all-purpose flour

½ cup cornstarch

½ teaspoon baking powder

Big pinch cayenne pepper

1 12-ounce bottle lager beer

2 4.2-ounce tins sardines packed in lemon and oil

Kosher salt

Lemon wedges and tartar sauce, to serve

Pour 3 inches of neutral oil into a medium saucepan and warm to 375 degrees.

In a large bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder and cayenne. Gently stir in the beer with a fork to avoid getting too much foam. A few clumps are OK; overmixing is not.

Place the sardines in the batter and gently toss to coat. Lift the sardines one at a time from the batter, allowing excess batter to drip back into the bowl. Do this one by one until you have six to eight sardines in the oil, depending on the size of your pan.

Fry the sardines until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Be careful not to overcrowd the pan, as this will reduce the temperature of the oil and you’ll end up with soggy, greasy fish. Once the fish are cooked, use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a plate lined with paper towels. Season with a little salt. Repeat this process until all the sardines are fried.

Serve while hot, with lemon wedges and tartar sauce.

Makes 4 servings

According to the New York Times, the tuna melt was accidentally invented in the 1960s at the Woolworth’s lunch counter in Charleston, South Carolina, when the cook didn’t notice that a bowl of tuna salad had tipped over onto a grilled cheese. Who knows if this story is true, but the tuna melt became classic American diner food. Extra-sharp farmhouse-style cheddar cheese is a must. You can serve this open face (my preference) or with a top slice. If using a top, prepare it like you would a grilled cheese. Other canned fish such as salmon, sardines or mackerel make a delicious substitution for the tuna.

2 split English muffins or 4 slices sourdough, dark rye or whole-grain bread

1 recipe Tuna Salad (recipe follows)

1 cup shredded extra sharp cheddar cheese

Preheat the broiler and set the rack about 4 to 5 inches from the heat source.

Spread the muffins out in a single layer on a baking sheet and toast. Top with the tuna salad and then the shredded cheese. Place the baking sheet under the broiler and heat for 3 to 5 minutes or until the cheese has melted. Serve immediately.

Two 4.2-ounce cans tuna in olive oil, drained, preferably Ventresca

3 tablespoons finely chopped celery

2 tablespoons finely chopped green onions, including the green part

1 tablespoon minced flat-leaf parsley

⅓ cup mayonnaise

2 teaspoons whole-grain mustard

2 tablespoons drained and chopped capers

Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper and drops of lemon juice, to taste

In a small mixing bowl, break up the tuna with a fork. Toss with the celery, onion and parsley. Add the mayonnaise, mustard and capers and season with salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste. Stir to combine.

Makes 12 servings

The key to this dish is to use the delicious oil-packed tuna from Spain or Italy. The very best of them is labeled Ventresca, which comes from the belly. Boquerones are special anchovies that are ubiquitous in tapas bars in Spain. They are not the intensely salty and fishy anchovies most of us are used to. They are white, delicate and typically packed in a combination of oil and vinegar. You’ll find them refrigerated in plastic containers in good delicatessens. I’m addicted to them straight out of the container!

6 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and cut in half lengthwise

½ cup imported oil-packed tuna, drained and finely flaked

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons drained and chopped small capers

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

12 Boquerones anchovies

2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley and/or mint

¼ teaspoon or so Spanish smoked paprika

Place egg yolks in a bowl and mash. Add the tuna, mayonnaise, lemon juice and capers and stir to mix thoroughly. Season to your taste with salt and pepper.

Spoon the yolk mixture into the egg whites. You may have a little more filling than you’ll need, which is not a bad thing! Arrange two anchovies on top of each egg and sprinkle with parsley and paprika.